We asked for his advice to share with us little secrets from his beloved homeland, Corfu. A series of about twenty questions touching on tourism, gastronomy, entertainment, and other hidden gems – through them, we will reveal his Corfu.
We are delighted, dear readers, to be speaking with Professor Ioannis Sourdis from Chalmers University of Technology, where he has been teaching for the past 14 years.
Article by Georgios Evangelos Zapartas
Ioannis Sourdis: The most beautiful corner of (my own) world (a.k.a. my little bubble!)
[On a path leading to a remote beach in Liapades – in the distance, Angelokastro can be seen]
My friends often tease me that I spend more time away than at home. And it’s true—or at least it used to be before COVID-19. Conferences and various professional meetings have taken me to many corners of the world. But for me, the most beautiful place (as it is for many, perhaps) is the place I grew up: Corfu, or “Koryfo” (Korfo => Corfu), from the Greek word “koryfi” meaning “peak,” referring to the two peaks of the Old Fortress of Corfu.
Culture & History
Which cultural or historical landmarks do you believe are must-sees for anyone visiting Corfu?
Corfu has a long and rich history, dating back to Homeric times (the island of the Phaeacians) and a remarkable cultural heritage, especially in the arts and music.
In Paleopolis (Mon Repos), you can discover the remnants of Homeric Corfu: the ruins of temples dedicated to Hera and Artemis (or Poseidon, or Apollo… opinions vary). Near the second temple, look for the spot with a view of the Old Fortress. Paleopolis is a wonderful place for a walk.
[The view of the Old Fortress from Mon Repos – Photo by Giannis Sourdis]
The Old and New (Venetian) Fortresses take you back in time, and their highest points offer stunning views over the city.
The houses of Kapodistrias and Solomos reveal a part of the island’s history.
Outside the city, Angelokastro (an important stronghold during the Byzantine era) is definitely worth a visit – the view from there is simply breathtaking.
[View from Angelokastro – Photo by Giannis Sourdis]
The Palace of St. Michael and St. George and the Liston remind us that the English and the French (among many others) once passed through the island.
[The Palace and, in the background, the Liston – Photo by Giannis Sourdis]
Achilleion (the summer palace of Empress Sisi) is another must-see location.
I’ve surely left out many others…
Is there a museum or exhibition you particularly recommend, and why?
The Archaeological Museum is the first one I suggest. Among other things, it houses the pediment of an ancient temple and remnants of prehistoric cultures found on the island. There is now an audiovisual guide that enhances the tour experience.
The Corfu Art Gallery often hosts very interesting exhibitions.
The Palace also houses a wonderful collection of Asian art.
There are many more to discover at the link [1].
What is your favourite neighbourhood in the Old Town, and what makes it special?
I enjoy wandering through the alleyways between Spilia and Kampiello, especially in the evening hours, when the city is quiet and empty. It reminds me of my childhood.
[Alleyways of the Old Town – Photo by Giannis Sourdis]
Is there a traditional event or celebration one shouldn’t miss when visiting the island?
Corfu is famous for its Easter celebrations. It’s probably the best place to experience Greek Easter (though I admit I may not be entirely objective).
Visitors will witness unique local customs and enjoy the island’s renowned philharmonic bands that take part in the festivities.
The “botides” on Holy Saturday morning and the Resurrection in Spianada Square are impressive, but “Hamlet” on Holy Saturday and the “Adagio” by the Old Philharmonic (F.E.K.) on Good Friday evening are truly unforgettable.
Beaches & Nature
What are the best beaches for swimming and relaxation?
Unfortunately, the eastern side of the island has suffered greatly from over-tourism. Sometimes I try to imagine what these places were like before the 1960s.
Only the northeastern area escapes this fate – especially the region of Erimitis, the last untouched corner of the island. Sadly, it was recently sold off to private investors by the Greek state.
[Erimitis Beach, photo: Giannis Sourdis]
The western beaches are better, especially the southern ones which are less touristy.
[Southwest beach in Corfu, photo: Giannis Sourdis]
Those who love hiking can choose Porto Timoni, or look for other remote beaches at Erimitis, Liapades, Paleokastritsa, or in the South.
[Halikounas Beach, photo: Giannis Sourdis]
[Gyali, photo: Giannis Sourdis]
[Porto Timoni, photo: Giannis Sourdis]
Those who prefer sailing can reach even more secluded beaches in the west.
Some secrets are best kept for the locals, so I won’t go into further details.
Is there a secluded or lesser-known beach that only locals know about?
I’ve already said too much! 🙂 (laughs!!!)
What is the best spot for sunset in Corfu?
Loggas in Peroulades, or Cape Drastis right next to it, or alternatively a café-bar in Kanoni overlooking Pontikonisi.
[Loggas, Peroulades, photo: Giannis Sourdis]
What natural routes or trails do you recommend for hiking or exploring?
There are plenty all over the island. One can literally walk from the north to the southernmost part of the island through its trails.
You can find them at link [2] and walk them preferably in organized groups, always with company, appropriate clothing and footwear, water, food, a map, and a charged phone!
Nature – both the mountain and the sea – requires caution and respect.
Food & Local Flavors
What is the best restaurant or taverna for authentic pastitsada or sofrito?
The best place for pastitsada or sofrito used to be my godmother’s, Mrs. Elpida’s. Nowadays I settle for “Chrysomallis” in town and “Elisavet” in Doukades.
Is there a dish or local specialty you consider a “must” for visitors?
Bianco (cod in white sauce) and Bourdeto (usually made with scorpionfish in a sauce with hot red pepper and red bell pepper).
Where can one eat well but inexpensively in Corfu?
The tavern in Sokraki is one of my favorites for lamb chops and homemade dishes. The tavernas in Old Perithia are also a good choice and can be combined with a beautiful excursion to the traditional village.
Seafood is always more expensive.
For fish I prefer the taverna in Kouloura (open only for lunch) and “Klimataria” in Benitses. For lobster pasta, “Avra” in Prasoudi.
Is there a favorite local hangout that you won’t find in tourist guides?
I’m not sure because I don’t read tourist guides for Corfu. There are many places for food and drinks, especially in the smaller, less touristy villages (e.g. in the South or up North in the mountains), which are the most authentic.
Coffee & Nightlife
What is the best café for breakfast or coffee with a view?
For breakfast I would choose Favela No17 in Kampiello, and for the view “Dolce” or the traditional café in Lakones. There is also the café at the Old Fortress, the terrace at the Cavalieri Hotel, and many more. I’m certainly forgetting a lot.
[View from Lakones, photo: Giannis Sourdis]
Where do you locals go for cocktails or drinks at night?
To the bars of the Old Town, e.g. “Mikro Kafe”. To “La Grotta” in Paleokastritsa (a magical bar among the rocks), “Off-town” above Ipsos.
Is there an artistic or music bar worth visiting?
Various live performances are organized in the island’s venues. The one that stands out is “7 Technon Topos” in Viro. It operates mainly in winter. In summer, the people who run it organize concerts at the Old Fortress or other venues.
Hidden Tips & Local Insight
If you had only one day in Corfu, what would you do or where would you go?
I’d wander around the Old Town, the fortresses, and Mon Repos (and I’d also take a swim at Kardaki).
What is your favorite spot on the island that you have an emotional connection to?
The alleys in the Spilia neighborhood. I have memories of walking there since I first remember myself, when I still needed to hold my parents’ hands to stand upright.
Are there local products or souvenirs you recommend buying?
Rizogalo (rice pudding), yogurt, galaktoboureko and other treats from Alexis’ dairy, spices from “Sweet ’N Spicy,” traditional green soap from Patounis, limoncello, and various kitchenware made of olive wood, found in many shops.
What is the best time of year to visit Corfu (apart from summer)?
September–October or April–June are usually more relaxed and the weather is generally good for enjoying the island.
What advice would you give to a traveler visiting Corfu for the first time?
Enjoy every moment on the island with respect for the environment and caution at sea and in the forests.
Do not book an “all-inclusive resort.” I find it a tragic choice.
Rent a car but be careful when driving.
We thank Giannis for the wonderful photos and his personal insights into your beautiful island, the unique Corfu.
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